Photography - Historical |
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New Zealand - Publicity photograph for Jantzen Swimwear - 1932-1933 - by Gordon Burt, Gordon H. Burt Ltd. In 1910, Portland Knitting Company began in downtown Portland, Oregon, with a few hand-knitting machines above a tiny retail store. Little did founders Carl Jantzen, Roy and John Zehntbauer know that they would achieve both fame and controversy as swimwear pioneers. Producing a wool suit for a rowing team they began offering "bathing suits" in their catalog. Knit on sweater cuff machines, the suits became popular with swimmers. The demand increased for those "Jantzens" and the company name was changed in 1918 to Jantzen Knitting Mills. The suits were made of 100% pure virgin wool. Matching stockings and stocking cap completed the costume of the day. Early advertisements guaranteed the famous rib-stitch "gives that wonderful fit". 1920 A national advertising campaign included billboards in San Francisco and Los Angeles. Cutouts and decals of the red Diving Girl appeared on windshields of automobiles across the country. Sales during the decade spread throughout Europe, the Americas and Asia. The red Diving Girl icon had become an international symbol. The Jantzen Swimming Association sponsored swimming education and clean water programs across the country. Endorsements by celebrities began with 1924 Olympic Games champions Johnny Weismuller and Duke Kahanamoku of Hawaii. Fashion became increasingly important. "Color Harmony," a range of colors and color combinations, was introduced to suit the coloration of every swimmer. 1930 Jantzen catalogs featured upcoming movie stars, including Loretta Young, Joan Blondell, Ginger Rogers, and Dick Powell. National magazines such as Esquire, the Saturday Evening Post, Life, and Colliers published advertisements illustrated by George Petty, who became famous for his air-brush depictions of handsome men and shapely women. Jantzen's philosophy of flattering the female form defined the company. In 1931, the introduction of the "Shouldaire" allowed strap-free tanning. An internal drawstring above the bustline allowed the shoulder straps to be dropped. The concept of "Molded Fit" defined the bustline. Lastex, a rubberized yarn, was blended into the fabric to allow better give to the suit. Synthetics, such as rayon, appeared with cotton or silk. Later in the decade, woven patterned fabrics in many color combinations made their debut. 1940 Business perked up in 1941 after Jantzen added sweaters, foundations (girdles) and active sportswear to its basic line. In December of that year, the attack on Pearl Harbor changed the economic picture through 1945. Production of civilian goods declined while military orders increased. Military items produced by Jantzen included sweaters, swim trunks, sleeping bags, gas mask carriers, and parachutes. With the war's end, the company stressed new styling by nationally known designers such as Louella Ballerino. Nylon was a preferred fabric. The bikini introduced in France in 1946, set the style for brevity in swimwear and became a worldwide fashion classic. 1950 The 1950s saw the expansion of highways, auto transport and air travel. Greater mobility allowed Americans to venture out to the beaches, lakes and parks for entertainment and relaxation. Florida was popular with vacationers and water sports enthusiasts. Swimwear and casual wear sales were high. Combinations of fibers and quick dry synthetics were a favorite. The late '50s saw the introduction of commercial jet airliners, which made visits to exotic locations practical for many. Construction of swimming facilities expanded. Jantzen, with its licensees and design studios in some eighteen countries around the globe, provided a great variety of styles and fabrics from its international affiliates. 1960 The new Jantzen advertising campaign titled "Just Wear a Smile and a Jantzen" took the country by storm. Sponsors like Kodak, Ford Motor Company and United Airlines invited "Smile Contest" winners from each state to an annual contest in the Hawaiian Islands. Top contestants were featured in national advertising campaigns. The surfing scene came to life with the music of the Beach Boys. Swimsuits ranged from the popular bikini to the more conventional maillots. Fabrics included knits and wovens in quick-drying synthetics. Natural fibers were often blended with man-made yarns. Innovation in design and styling was a hallmark of the decade. 1970 continued at https://jantzen.com/pages/through-the-decades Gordon Burt - 1893 - 1968 - Born and raised in Christchurch, Gordon Burt was an inventive photographer and a pioneer for commercial photography in New Zealand. - He moved to Wellington in 1915 with the intention of enlisting to serve in the First World War but was turned away due to his poor eyesight. After deciding to remain in Wellington he found a job with a local photographer and eventually opened his own commercial photography business in 1924, Gordon Burt Ltd. - He was quickly successful due to a number of innovative techniques he employed including montage effects and superimposition. Burt would primarily work with numerous garment manufacturers. - During the 1940's he developed his own method of colour printing named 'Tru-Colour' for which he would file a patent with the United States PAtent Office. it became one of the most successful methods of colour photography available to New Zealand at the time. - Gordon Burt would retire in 1965, and passed away in 1968. In 1970 2,500 of his negatives were saved from a building on the verge of being demolished and are now stored at Te Papa. Image source: Publicity photograph for Jantzen Swimwear, 1932-1933, by Gordon Burt, Gordon H. Burt Ltd. Te Papa (C.002282) https://collections.tepapa.govt.nz/object/117029